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articles > Mode events

Arjun Khanna
Mode

Mode automne/hiver 2009: le futur est haut en couleurs!

By No author
02/03/2009

This year, London Fashion Week A/W 09 has shown a creativity and a potential that wasn’t expected: The least we can say is that the designers involved do not seem to have been affected by the current atmosphere of doom and gloom! Wedged between New York and Milan Fashion week, London Fashion Week is, never-the-less, always a key event for fashion, a definite trend setter! And there were so many new interesting trends! Such a delight! Evidently, nothing is going to stop London's audacity. Between the catwalks and the exhibitions, we have seen so many things that could influence upcoming seasons that it is quite a task to attempt to sum them up…

Notably, it was the first time in 25 years that an entire day was devoted to men's fashion. Masculinity (thank you Mr Beckam) is no longer defined by a lack of personal hygiene and disinterest in ones appearance. So, why keep on excluding men from fashion? The British Fashion Council took the issue seriously and created a special day to show off 13 new and up-coming UK menswear designers. Great idea!

So, what was to be noticed during the last London Fashion week? 

Crayola colours

Colours are back! Everywhere! Happy shades that made some catwalks resemble a box of crayola pencilas-in a good way.The best example was House of Holland's collection: model Agyness Deyn certainly carried off the numerous happy shades!

 

House of Holland
House of Holland
 

A/F 09 colours will definitely be orange, blue, purple, rosa and ...kaki, which finally seems to have made its fashion come-back. I'm sure Paul Smith will concur.

Paul Smith and PPQ
Paul Smith and PPQ

Jackie O.

Suwha
Suwha

Retro chic has been top of the fashion Hot List for a while now, but, this time, it got a touch of American style. Jackie O. is your new inspiration source.

30s' and 60s' are back on the catwalks! Carla Bruni, who compares herself to Jacky O. and who is a retro chic style supporter, will be happy.  

At the exhibition, designer Suwha was to be noticed in particular.

 

Catwalks offer some good creations as well. 

Eley Kishimito, Vivienne Westwood and Luella
Eley Kishimito, Vivienne Westwood and Luella
 

Tribute to shoulders

 

The shoulder is definitely fashion's new erogenous zone. Whether channelling the eighties in a fierce pair of shoulder pads or playing with asymmetry and one shoulder items, don't forget to set them off ! Bustiers and corsets are back in too. Just pick up your style:

- Sharp shoulder à la Julian McDonald, John Rocha and Jaeger London

Julian McDonald, John Rocha and Jaeger London
Julian McDonald, John Rocha and Jaeger London
 

- One shoulder or bustier à la Issa, Erdem and Marios Schwab.

 

Issa, Erdem and Marios Schwab
Issa, Erdem and Marios Schwab

 

 

 

Preppy school girl has turned bad...

 

Preppy school princesses have gone Bad: Luella, Vivienne Westwood, Paul Smith and Mullberry were all channelling naughty school girls to achieve autumn's cool new military-meets-school uniform-meets English heritage trend blend.

Preppy girl from last season went darker and more masculine. Do you recognise her?

 

Luella, Vivienne Westwood, Paul Smith
Luella, Vivienne Westwood, Paul Smith
 

Aviator style

Didn't you feel, occasionally during Fashion Week, as if you were bording a plane? It seems the newest source of inspiration is flight attendents. Quite understandable since this outfit has an undeniable class which always make people dream (or maybe even fantacise?). 

 

Eley Kishimito, Issa
Eley Kishimito, Issa

Never without my jacket

Jackets are simply everywhere: next season, don't forget yours!

 
 
 
 

Curves I love you

 

London Fashion Week A/F 09 loves curves! Such a scoop!

Some clothes were definitely body-friendly with the general aim of setting off women's curves. I know it is hard to believe but I promise! Some designers decided to play with curves, creating some aerial cuts and even some egg-shaped forms...

Erdem, Giless, Jager London, PPQ
Erdem, Giless, Jager London, PPQ
 

Dresses VS skirts

 

A whole year has gone by with skirts ruling the fashion playground, but, this time it seems that dresses are taking their revenge! They were simply everywhere.

 
 

Contrasts forever

Fashion loves playing with contrast and the new collections are no exception. This season, designers have not been afraid of mixing rich and poor, shiny and matt, light and heavy matters. Results are always surprising!

 

PPQ, Marios Schwab, John Rochas and Giless
PPQ, Marios Schwab, John Rochas and Giless

 

 

Credit crunch

AVSH Alom Gur
AVSH Alom Gur

Facing the credit crunch, designers didn't have the same reaction at all. Some of them chose provocation whilst others decided to recycle!

Young designer AVSH Alom Gur put 'Credit Crunch' sequinned slogans all over his collection... A bling-bling response to the crisis!

In contrast, Estonian designer Reet Aus showed at the exhibition a range of creations made from upcycled trousers and men's shirts that she collected. Reet Aus made her London Fashion Week debut this February at Estethica - the ethical fashion section of LFW. The other part of her collection was purely organic. A designer connected with the issues of the day: how can we not appreciate her work?

 

Reet Aus
Reet Aus
 
 

 

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