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London Fashion Week A/W 2008 feedback: Black is back!

By Louise Catier
19/02/2008

London Fashion Week A/W 2008 feedback: Black is back!

This week was full of anticipation, excitement and new discoveries for the fashion fans all around London as the Autumn Winter 2008 collections were introduced at the London Fashion Week.
After a week running from one catwalk to another for us too, it is now time to give you our verdict. Discover our day-to-day feedback and, in exclusivity, the new trends for next Autumn Winter season.

Sunday 10th February

The week was opened last Sunday by Sir Stuart Rose and Sarah Brown, introducing Harold Tillman, the new chairman of the British Fashion Council. Then, the first catwalks included, among others, Jean-Pierre Braganza and his collection ‘Chromacolyte’, centred on the human form and its ‘interplanetary possibility’; catwalk at Claridges’ Ballroom for Biba and Osman Yousefzada inspired by a trip to Japan.

Jean-Pierre Braganza Catwalk

Monday 11th February

The first catwalk show for us was on Monday morning to discover the collection of designer John Rocha, strongly marked by the come back of black colour with slight touches of red, purple and coral pink. It also emphasized new profiles and new shapes with an accent on light wadding and bell, and a preference for sculpted jackets and short skirts.
In the afternoon, the show of new designer CORE Spirit took place at the Landmark Hotel’s Ballroom. Once again, black was strongly present, with a few splashes of gold and white. The female collection was surrounded by short skirts and dresses, satin shirts and short varnished jackets. Varnished jackets were worn by men as well, added to simple black trousers with horizontal gold lines.

Tuesday 12th February

We were invited on this day to the Inbar Spector show at Vauxhall Fashion Scout. With a kind of weird opening by women dressed in what looked like parachute jumpsuits, this catwalk went on to reveal an interesting collection full of lovely cream corseting, black chiffon dresses and asymmetric jackets. It was a great balance between the femininity of the corsetry and the hard-edged gothic inspired element and intricate tailoring. And once again, black was back.

Inbar Spector Catwalk

Wednesday 13th February

Full skirted volume and a playful take on colour were the order of the day for Markus Lupfer, at Armand Basi, who introduced his collection full of high waisted bubble skirts and, peplum brocade jackets which took some skilful execution.
It was also time for us to have a look at the exhibition at London Fashion Week. The development of the eco-fashion was impressive this season, particularly with the launch of ‘Esthetica’ in association with the Monsoon and Accessorize groups, a collection made by a eco-designers gathered to fight for several issues from eco fabric to ethical trade. All of that showed positively that even designers are increasingly committed to testifies ecological issues.

Davina Hawthorne part of Esthetica

Thursday 14th February

On this Valentine’s Day, we attended a beautiful show by designer AVSH ALOM GUR, which took place inside an overcrowded room at Vauxhall Fashion Scout. After the entrance of the first models the number of people who absolutely wanted to be there was understandable. This rather calm and slow fashion show revealed light coloured dresses and skirts with splashes of stronger colours such as bright orange and strong blue. Corsetry and tightened belts were also on show, as well as gorgeous ethnic jewellery with enormous colourful necklaces balancing the simplicity of some outfits. This fashion show was by far the most interesting.

Thus, next Autumn Winter trends must be marked by the strong come back of black, balanced with just one other colour such as coral pink or cream. Do not hesitate to take your stitch jumpers out again as they will no doubt be trendy next season. Large trousers and short flared skirts with a belt tightened at the waistline will also surely be in. Don’t miss a stylish hat to finalise your outfit.

Julien MacDonald collection

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